Cheers from Roma (again)

So I'm back in Rome. Should be finished up her within a few days so I figured I would give you a 's heads up on what's happening and what happened. Yesterday Emilie and I parted ways, she with her friend Megan took the train and the night ferry to Croatia while I took the train to Rome. Emilie and Megan arrived safely in Croatia, I confirmed that this morning.

So back tracking briefly, Emilie and I went back into Valle dell'Orco after the last post. I believe that was on Saturday that we posted. We had intended to do some hiking in the Valle on sunday, but the weather turned out to be pretty poor looking. So instead we opted to attempt to climb Fessura per P.A. (100m, 4b (5.5) 3 pitches). The climb followed a generally nice crack line up a slab called la Pyramide. There was nothing super difficult about the climb and it was generally forgetable except for a couple of nice jamming sequences on the second and third pitch. The most interesting thing about the climb was the bolts. The climb was perfectly protectable using traditional gear yet had bolts on it. On the second pitch the hangers on the two bolts were hammered down and rendered useless but they were still usable on the third pitch. Every one of the 4 bolts on the pitch were within a foot of a bomber nut placement. I found it quite odd. Anyway, we rappelled off the route just as the weather turned nasty.

Monday brought rain in the morning but a clear if windy afternoon. We figured to take a second attempt at Spigolo. Unfortunatly it again turned out to be too hard for me to lead the crux and I bailed again. I think that I have the move figured out now and will likely try it one last time.

Tuesday, was windy and my hands were pretty beat up from the cracks of the previous days. So we decided to climb a nice slab route called Via del Placche (300m, 5c) (way of plate) 8 pitches of max 5c (5.9) slab climbing though the slab was only at about 4c (5.7) and the 5c bits were more vertical with holds/cracks to climb. The 1st pitch is a gentle huff up a small arrette/chimney (4b). At the first anchor we were passed by an Italian party, the leader climbed extremely fast, while the second (possibly a guided client) climbed slower and more labourously. Regardless, they climbed faster than we did so past they went up the second pitch. The second pitch was a short awkward climb the corner of a large flake (5c). I ended up taking a small fall while doing the moves but pulled through on the second attempt. Emilie came through like a champ. Again there were bolts but it could have been traditionally protected. In this case I used the bolts. The thirdy pitch, Emilie bravely led (4c). This was the first slab pitch and she felt it was a bit runout between the bolts especially at the crux of the pitch where you had to step out left unto a true friction slab and pad up to the anchors with a 20foot fall potentional. I took the next pitch, a short (5a) slab pitch with a single bolt as protection. From there we needed to consider the rest of the route, the initial route (via delle placche) ended and we traversed onto another route using a foot traverse up an flake. My #3 bd camalot was slightly tipped out in the flake but probably would have been good enough for a fall but the climbing was easy (4a). From here came the 6th pitch, a 60 foot slab to a crack line that traversed right (4b). The slab had one bolt about 20 feet up. So off I go, no point stopping or thinking about the fall potential, cause well, you just don't fall. It was actually easier than I had expected as the rock had some serious friction. A small clusterfuck at the belay stopped me about 5 metres from the crack system but I was solid and able to stay put while Emilie cleaned up. At the crack system the climb continued up through the next several slabby pitches until the last 5c crux in the last pitch, a single friction move on tiny crimpers. Not too hard. Oh and Emilie will want me to write that it was bloody cold on the rock. Very windy. Reallllly enjoyable climb though.

Yesterday, Emilie and I only had the morning to climb as we needed to get back to Torino in the afternoon. So, we climbed a short climb called via del diadro, (3 pitch 5c, 100m) The first pitch, which Emilie led was an easy 4b up to the first belay, she was gentle and opted to climb above the hole that would have been easy for her but hard for me to slip through. Nice girl :-). The second pitch was probably the most sustained 5b (5.8) that I have ever led. 50m of pretty solid 5.8 climbing through corners, small overhangs and laybacks. The gear was good and I didn't feel particularly nervous despite being near my limit for gear routes. Emilie enjoyed the climb but at one point found herself climbing up a slightly differant way than I. She had to hang on the rope in order to get back on the route that I took. She complained because it looked super easy the way she went, to me, the piton looked nicer than the unprotected bit. The last pitch, a solid 5c layback dihedral went extremely well. I was able to climb it without falling or hanging on the rope (so my second 5.9 gear climb without falling). Good times were had on the route!

So, now I am in rome, my poor hands are healing which is good. Hopefully I will be back climbing on the 16th or 17th. Emilie will return to Torino on the 19th. I'll let her keep the blog up to date until I start being exciting again.

Oh yes, just a quick climbing dictionary for those who are confused by all the climbing lexicon in the past two posts:

Chimney - a large < bodysized crack in the rock. Generally cause for moaning and complaining and lots of grunting while climbing.

Arrette - a ridge shapped chunk of rock. Generally much smaller and higher angle than a proper ridge (I don't remember if I said that we climbed one or not)

Crack - A crack in the rock. Differant sizes include - too small (Emilie's fingers), finger crack (jam my fingers inside), hand crack (jam my hand inside), too big (jam everything else inside. Includes chimneys)

Hex - Hexagonal shaped piece of aluminum. Called a Dadi in Italian. We thought the climb called for us to bring our Daddies along. We though the price tag would be too high.

Cam - a funky device that I carry along with me, it's heavy, costs too much but kick butt in Granite to protect myself from falling.

Nuts - 1. Something we need to be in order to enjoy climbing. 2. Things we need in order to climb. 3. Wedge shapped pieces of aluminum used like hexes and cams.

Bolts - unlike hexes, cams and nuts, these are pre-placed for us and we simply clip into them. Generally not placed near where hexes, cams or nuts can be placed.

Dihedral (Diedro) - a corner with a crack in the back. Generally climbed by laybacking.

Layback (ing) - the technique of plastering your feet on the rock and hanging off a crack sort of in a sitting position. (Hands are feet are very near to each other) Requires lots of strength as it is very tiring to maintain the opposition.

Slab (placche) - a style of climbing where falling hurts. Essentially uses only friction to climb as there are few holds of substance. Always less than vertical, except in Arco where there are overhanging technical slab climbs. Don't ask me how that works.

I think that's it. Feel free to ask if you are confused about any other technical jargons that I use.

Cheers!